Mount Rainier presents a glorious spectacle on clear winter days, a gleaming heap of ice and snow visible from half the state. It is a superb place to experience the beauty and magic of back country skiing. Cross-country types love “The Mountain’s” sun-struck south-facing slopes. Follow the route from 5,420-foot Paradise Lodge to Reflection Lake and back. Telemark skiers also find these open slopes irresistible. For snow and trail conditions, call Mount Rainier Business Association at 360-569-0910, or visit www.mt-rainier.com.

The National Park Inn and Paradise Inn offer rooms, rentals, and lessons (360-569-2275 or www.guestservices.com/rainier). Just outside the park boundary, based in the town of Ashford, is Mount Tahoma Trails Association (360-569-2451), sponsoring a 126-km trail network linking high huts with grand views of Mount Rainier.

In Olympic National Park, you can strap on a pair of snowshoes provided by the park service and trek along the alpine roller-coaster of wind-swept Hurricane Ridge. Minor facilities exist for downhilling, too. Call 360-452-0330 or visit www.nps.gov/olym/home.htm.

LOCALS SUGGEST:

• Winter temperature inversions can bring surprisingly balmy conditions to higher alpine areas, like Paradise at Mount Rainier.
• Looking for even more remote skiing? Check out the winter fastness of Holden Village, a church-run encampment tucked into a side valley off Lake Chelan, via Lucerne.
• In the remote village of Stehekin, accessible only by boat and seaplane at the head of Lake Chelan in North Cascades National Park, you can snowshoe along the Stehekin River, looking for wildlife, including mountain goats, and enjoying natural wonders like 320-foot Rainbow Falls. Call 800-424-3526 or visit www.lakechelan.com.
• The Kalama Ski Trail #231, just inside the Mount St. Helens National Monument boundary, leads 11 miles from Cougar Sno-Park (exit I-5 at Woodland) through forest up to ridges with sweeping views toward the volcano. Call 360-247-3900 or visit www.fs.fed.us/gpnf